Throughout
the ages Ithaca has been known as the home of Odysseus.
For years Homer’s hero wandered before he finally
returned to his island kingdom. Though he visited
beautiful, exotic, far-flung lands, Ithaca never left
his mind for a moment.
And even today, once you’ve been to
Ithaca, it’s difficult to forget this small, mountainous
island with its captivating coves that conjure up some
earthly paradise.
Ithaca is separated from Cephalonia by a
channel some 2 to 4 kilometres wide. The west coast of
the island is steep and almost barren in contrast to the
green, gentle shoreline on the east.
The capital and largest settlement is
Ithaki or Vathi; its red-roofed delightful houses set
amidst enchanting scenery at the end of the deep closed
bay of Molos. Taking the capital as a starting point,
it’s easy to get to know the island’s landmarks.
Three kilometres to the northwest lies
the so-called Cave of the Nymphs (Nimfon Cave). Here
according to the myth, Odysseus hid the gifts bestowed
upon him by the Phaeacians who deposited him upon
Ithaca’s shores ten long years after the end of the
Trojan War.
Also worth visiting is the medieval
Monastery of the Archangels at Perahori.
North of the capital and 600 meters above
sea level, the Kathara Monastery (Moni Katharon) has a
unique view of the island from its bell tower. On the
horizon you can make out the mountains of Akarnania, the
Echinades islets, the peaks of Zakinthos, the eastern
coast of Cephalonia and even the entrance to the Gulf of
Patras.
The bay of Polis to the west is the site
of another cave (Loizos’ cave). This one yielded up
sherds on which were carved inscriptions testifying to
the worship of Artemis, Hera and Athena. Even more
interesting, in the cave were also found recently twelve
tripods similar to the other that the Phaeacians were
supposed to have given to Odysseus.
Stavros, a village 17 kilometres
northwest of Ithaki, is a good base from which to
explore the northern section of the island.
About 1 kilometer north of Stavros is
Pelikata; excavations on this hillside between the bays
of Polis and Frikes brought to light remains of a small
Bronze Age settlement. The finds unearthed there
reinforce the theory that the ancient city of Ithaca
lies somewhere in the vicinity.
Kioni and Frikes, typically Ionian
villages, on the northeast coast are unspoilt, wonderful
places for a short excursion or an extended sojourn.
Ithaca offers lovely beaches for bathing,
caves for exploring and uncrowded hamlets where noisy
nightlife is unheard of.
“When you set out for Ithaca”,
wrote the poet Constantine Kavafis. He was refering to
Ithaca as one’s ultimate destination. Thus, Ithaca, this
verdant Ionian island, may become your own favorite
place, a place that draws you back year after year, when
you plan your summer holiday.
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